Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
